01. Why do I need a drum scan?
02. So, why do I need a drum scan?
03. What size scan do I need?
04. Is a bigger scan a better scan?
11. What is this "stitching" of flatbed scans that
you speak of?
21. How much is my retouching going to cost?
22. Can you make me beautiful?
31. How should I prepare my file for printing?
32. What is the difference between Standard print and Specialty
media?
91. Do you have ftp?
92. Can I get an order form?
01. Why do I need a drum scan?
Drum scanners offer the highest quality scans available by providing a wider tonal range, greater color accuracy, superior highlight and shadow detail and higher optical resolution than high-end flatbed scanners.
The film is mounted on a transparent cylinder (the drum). As the drum spins, a laser-like beam of light advances one pixel at a time. The beam is projected through the film and is sensed by a Photo Multiplier Tube (PMT) and converted into electronic data.
Flatbed scanners use Charged Coupling Devices (CCDs) as sensors. PMTs are more sensitive than CCDs to subtle variations between colors and have a greater dynamic range. Dynamic range, or optical density, measures the range of densities that a scanner is capable of reading. CCDs typically have a dynamic range of 3.4-3.7. our Heidelberg Tango drum scanner has a dynamic range of 4.2.
Drum scanners also have a greater optical resolution than flatbeds. Optical resolution is the maximum physical resolution, measured in pixels per inch (ppi), that a scanner can see. Flatbed scanners typically have an optical resolution between 1,200 and 5,000 ppi. Our Tango scanner's maximum resolution is 11,000 ppi.
02. So, why do I need a drum scan?
Right, well the truth is that you may not. Drum scans are not for the faint of heart. They cost more, they can be really LARGE, and for some things like web site images it is overkill.
But, you DO need a drum scan if you are looking for the best possible quality digital file from your film.
The PMT sensors in our drum scanner are able to get more detail from your image, especially in the shadows, than the CCD technology used in flatbed scanners.
Sharpness and focus are imparted to every part of the scan due to the drum mounting as the film is always exactly the same distance from the lens at every point.
The software is another contributing factor. The software for the Tango is not just some off the shelf bunch of code, but software that was written specifically to take advantage of every aspect of the technology built into the scanner.
And, of course, your scan is made by an experienced industry professional that has been trained to create the best possible files for you.
Your scan should be scanned to at least whatever your final output size will be. If you will be printing 16x20 at 300 dpi then you scan should be 16x20 at 300 ppi which comes out to be an 82 Mb RGB Tiff.
There is nothing wrong with scanning a little larger than you need as the image can be ressed down easily in Photoshop. You can also increase the resolution in Photoshop with amazingly good results. Of course, the more you try to increase the resolution the less amazing the results get.
Here are some common file sizes:
5x7 @ 300 ppi = 9 Mb RGB
8x10 @ 300 ppi = 20 Mb RGB
11x14 @ 300 ppi = 40 Mb RGB
16x20 @ 300 ppi = 82 Mb RGB
20x24 @ 300 ppi = 124 Mb RGB
Also keep in mind, not all output is at 300 dpi. Lambda printers use 200 dpi and huge prints for billboards can be as low as (ok, I am going to guess here, but it should be pretty close. Feel free to correct me.) 10 dpi! And while our Epson printers go up to 2880 dpi they still only require 300 ppi files.
04. Is a bigger scan a better scan?
That is pretty much answered in question 3, but could probably use some clarification.
No, it is just bigger. A scan made to the optimal resolution for the output device is the best scan possible. A bigger scan allows you the opportunity to make larger outputs at a later time, so in that way it might be "better" because it is more flexible, but an 82 Mb scan will be 81.66 Mb wasted as a 3x5 on your web site.
11. What is this "stitching" of flatbed scans that you speak of?
Stitching of scans is required if your art being scanned is larger than our scanner bed. In this case we take a series of 11"x17" sectional scans until the entire image is scanned. We then import the sectional scans into Photoshop and put them together like a puzzle. Once all of the pieces are in place we arrange the pieces together seamlessly so that the image is one large file.
In order to do this our cost structure is is based on two things: one, there is a charge for each sectional scan and two, there is a retouching charge to reflect the time spent in Photoshop merging all of the pieces into one image. To offset the stitching charge we price the sectional scans much lower than individual scans. This reflects the fact that we do not clean and color correct each sectional scan, but the piece as a whole.
In general a stitched scan costs more than an individual scan. Each one is different depending on the size of the original piece and must be quoted.
21. How much is my retouching going to cost?
Good question to which we will be happy to give you a quote.
Retouching is based on our hourly charge of $80 per hour and every retouching job has several aspects that determine how long it will take. Through experience and testing we have a pretty good idea of how long it will take and will put forth a good faith estimate.
This estimated quote is something that we here at The Pixel Mint stand by. We won't quote you for 3 hours and then hit you with a bill for 30! Nope, if we say 3 it is 3, even if it was 30 (that would be the experience part).
Things that happen outside of the quote, such as extra proofing or work that is outside of the scope of the quote would be charged, but never work within the quote.
22. Can you make me beautiful?
Yup.
31. How should I prepare my file for printing?
Manipulate the image as little as possible. Radical changes in color, contrast, sharpness, and compression can have horrible effects on your final prints.
In general, here are some guidelines.
1. Do not compress your file. If you have a Tiff or PSD, leave it that way. Jpeg compression causes lossiness and artifacts that may look fine on your monitor, but will certainly show up on a 20"x24" print at 1440 dpi. If you have a Jpeg, do not keep opening it and saving it. Every time you resave, you compress a little bit more...and that is bad.
2. Do not "fine tune" your image. Avoid color correction, contrast adjustment, cropping, and sharpening. That is all included in our printing service and we will do all of that stuff on our calibrated monitors that play nice with our icc profiled printers.
3. Bring in something that we can match. If you have a version of the image that you are fond of, bring it in with your file and we can match your print to your original.
4. Nice files make nice prints.
32. What is the difference between Standard print and Specialty media?
Standard prints are made on Epson's Premium Luster and Glossy Photo Paper, which replicate a photographic print, or an Enhanced Matte Paper.
Specialty papers cost a little more than the standard photo paper, ergo the higher price. Many of the specialty papers are fine art papers used to emulate the feel of a watercolor painting or sketch paper. There are also some special purpose papers such as an Adhesive Vinyl, Backlight Film and Synthetic Papers that have a very high tear resistance.
And of course there is Canvas media. Canvas has the look, feel and stretchability of actual painting canvas making it a perfect surface for replicating art.
Yes, we have ftp.
Getcher order forms here!
Click on the link to automatically open the form in Acrobat. Control+click (mac) or right click (PC) to open a menu and save the file to your computer. If you do not have Acrobat Reader you can download a free copy from Adobe here.
Drum Scanner
Order Form (pdf)
Retouching
Order Form (pdf)
Print Order
Form (pdf)
